Walk a Mile in My Moccasins…

13015441_10153395505757854_1079581490261928513_nIf you travel as much as we do, chances are that you have encountered people who do not own a pair of shoes. I’ve seen adults in Tanzania wearing shoes cut from truck tires. I’ve seen kids barefooted or with taped flip-flops. Try going to school or finding work when you don’t have shoes. In Myanmar I saw people trying to tie soles to their feet to make walking easier. And I remember a kid in Zambia trying to walk on broken flip-flops… It broke my heart thinking of how many pairs of shoes people in the western world own….

Sometimes a solution to a huge problem can be simple. Often it requires dedication and real compassion. The-Shoe-That-Grows has made a huge difference by designed shoes that can increase 5 sizes as you grow, and by donating those shoes to people who need them. YOU can help by donating money or buying a pair to be given away on your behalf! Check out: https://www.theshoethatgrows.org

During the month of April I am wearing and showing a pair of ‘shoes that grow’ to help create awareness. These shoes are made of straps that expand on all sides, allowing the shoes to fit for many years. They are comfortable and strong.

Please consider sponsoring a pair of shoes and making the world a better world to tread for so many people. You can donate here: https://fundraise.theshoethatgrows.org/events/wear-pair/e71813

Indonesia: A Happiness Journey

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA From Malaysia, we flew to Pekanbaru, Sumatra. We were the only westerns on board of the flight. Pekanbaru had a small, cute airport. Got our visas for Indonesia with no problem. Driving through the city, it reminded me of Pakistan: small houses, muddy roads, dogs, children, vegetable and fruit stands. We saw lots of wicker furniture for sale along the streets.

“Our” house is a spacious bungalow on the edge of the rain forest. The Chevron encampment where the school is, is quite isolated. There are lots of little black and larger brown monkeys on the lawns and in the trees. Amazingly, the house in which we stay while doing school presentations, comes with a house boy. He cooks and cleans, serves us every meal. I almost get the giggles as we sit across an ornately carved table, and get served eggs and french fries for breakfast. We soon find out that he not only cooks and cleans, but does laundry and makes sure we don’t have to do ANYTHING. I am measuring him up to see if he fits in my suitcase, he is a keeper. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

On Tuesday Kees hired a taxi to go into town. First to a huge islam mosque, brand new, very expensive. He says “I had the same impression as years earlier in Spain where the churches are incredibly rich in design, materials and art work while the people outside are too poor to have shoes on their feet”. Then to a museum. While the building was nice and new, the displays were pathetic. Four guards followed him around and took about 200 pictures of that western guy looking at their ‘displays’. Surreal but interesting.

We went for a jungle walk with one of the teachers. It took a while to find someone willing to go in there. Many people did not want to go into the rain forest. Many locals are too afraid. The person who took us knew the path well. It was overgrown with liana’s and vines. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARotan, which is used to make furniture, turns out to be a spiky vine. We saw foot prints of wild pigs by some water and heard gibbons in the distance. We also saw two spiders the size of Kees’ hand… In the afternoon we boarded the bus to Duri, a three hour ride across a high, winding road. The road is not wider than two cars. The traffic is crazy in that everyone passes even in curves going uphill when they have no idea of what is coming. The road is lined with palm forests and small villages of wooden shacks. Kids on bare feet, scrawny dogs and chickens scurrying around. It is very, very hot.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAKees again: The security here is very tight. Camps such as Rumbai and Duri are heavily guarded. Not only do they have large fences around them, but the school even has a 10’ high berm all the way around the school against attacks. The gates are all crawling with guards and every car entering the compound is checked with a mirror underneath the car. There are guards at the gates, at the school entrance, driving around the compound day and night and even on the busses when people leave the compounds. Yesterday we traveled on a bus between Rumbai and Duri and we did not see a guard to my surprise. However when we got to Duri 3 hours later we discovered that a Jeep with armed security people had been following the bus the entire way. By the way, they only do that when there are westerners on the bus.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe other day when I took a taxi into Pekan Baru the taxi driver was told to not let me into any store or shopping center by myself. Malaysia is different, I would not hesitate one minute to travel anywhere I wanted there as I did in Kuala Lumpur. But not in Indonesia. The bus trip itself is interesting. The road winds through some small villages. Wooden shacks with thatched roofs. Some shacks on wooden stilts. Many palm forests. Shacks along the road selling jugs of gasoline, or cold drinks, or rambutans (spiky red fruit with slimy white fruit inside). Some shacks are restaurants selling nasi. We saw two trucks on their side along the road. One tank truck, one truck carrying logs. Both had obviously hit the edge of the pavement and flipped. Traffic is crazy, as we said before.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABack in Pekanbaru, I visited a batik store to buy a kaftan. Another fabulous massage and nasi goreng dinner. Pekanbaru was very busy with motorbikes and cars, people going to work and school. The streets are continuously being swept by city workers with tiny bundles of branches. I don’t understand how the people, especially the children, stay so immaculately clean while living in shacks and dirt roads. The children all wear bright white socks, school uniforms clean and pressed, hair all combed and perfect. Yet all around is dirt and dust. Everyone is very friendly, smiling, helpful. As I leave at the airport, a young man immediately started a conversation, wanting to practice his english. He said “Everyone says we live in such a beautiful country but we have to learn to protect our forests and wildlife. And our government is so corrupt.” OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

My Bahasa vocabulary so far:

Bahasa = language = what people speak here.

Pak = man, sir

Ebu = lady, mother

pisang = banana

nasi goreng = fried rice

bami goreng = fried noodles

saté = fried meat on stick

hati hati = slow

tehema kashi = (“terra makasi”) = thank you

selamat datang = welcome

sama sama = you are welcome

tempel = tire

tempel ban = flat tire

bintang = star

orang = person, men

orang utan = forest person

toko = store

Common fruits: mango, mangosteen, jackfruit, pisang, durian, rambutans, pineapple, coconut, watermelon, apples, oranges. There are also many Dutch words or words in which you can easily see the Dutch history: kantir, apotek, knalpot (=oil change) etc.

Next stop for me: Balikpapan, Borneo via Jakarta. The security man at the airport smiled and wished me “A happiness journey and a happiness day!”

Outside the airport, in the heat under a roof, were hundreds of people in colourful dress sitting on the sidewalks, waiting for flights or rides. They all smiled and bowed. I stood out like a sore, white thumb.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAToday I visited an orangutan reserve. It was a WILD ride through town and several other towns along a narrow, winding road. The towns and road hug the coastline. There is no beach because they’ve used all the sand for building. The driver kept passing motorbikes, cars, trucks and pedestrians in curves with absolutely no views and without changing gears…. We passed racks of pineapples, chickens scratching in the dust, boys bathing in the river, women laying out laundry, scrawny dogs, tables of fruit for sale, carts of gasoline jugs. It is such a colourful jumble of life.

After an hour we turned left up the hills and jolted along on red dirt roads with deep ruts until we reached the orangutan reserve. Pak Pete first showed us the enclosures which house the sun bears, small black bears with a “sun” pattern on their chest. As with all other wildlife here, their habitat has diminished greatly and they are endangered. Here they live protected but without the freedom they should have. The orangutans live on an island in relative freedom. They swing in trees and have a lot of space but can never be returned to the wild. They all have hepatitis. We went up into the eco-lodge, a gorgeous building with roofs made from the thready fiber of palm trees, where you can stay overnight and wake up high over the canopy of trees and look out over Borneo. Apparently Prince Bernard was a great supporter of this place and they still have special ties with The Netherlands.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAStopped at a batik shop but I couldn’t find the kind of shirt I’d like to buy. So we drove to a small alley, lined with carts selling all sorts of different foods. There we found a tiny shop with fabrics. It was more like someone’s home, with a baby sleeping on the floor in a backroom. The lady showed us fabrics. I chose two different ones. I left her the shirt I was wearing and she promised to make me two shirts in the right size by Saturday! It costs 5 dollar to have a shirt custom made.

My friends here just went to Kalimantan. They had photos of funerals there. People who die there are completely preserved for about 2 years until the family has saved up enough money for a funeral. They fill the body up with formaldehyde to preserve it for so long.. The family needs to buy about 23 buffalo, depending on their status. They all need to have a cave chipped out in a huge granite cliff. After two years or more, hundreds of relatives and villagers get together for the funeral: dancing, singing, eating. They sacrifice a buffalo. All the while, the deceased person is present. I saw photos of this beautiful elderly lady, with her hair all done, her best dress on, nails polished, make-up on a good looking face… But she had been dead for 2 years. Absolutely unbelievable. The children and grandchildren sit with her during all the days of the “celebration”. Finally she is put to rest in the cave, with others. But a look-alike statue sits upright on the edge, overlooking the valley where they lived. Amazing…

We walked around the local markets. You can go anywhere again here without any worries, unlike Sumatra. We walked around the markets. People smiled and bowed and pointed at their wares. Beautiful, friendly people everywhere. We saw stalls of papaya’s, durians, mango’s, bananas. Fish, meats, chickens both dead and alive. Plastic trinkets, slippers, cloth. It’s all a feast for the eyes. We bought cloth and I had 2 shirts made at Ibu Ari’s.

My flight to Surabaya was an hour late. Again I was the only westerner. Everyone looked and smiled and was friendly. A lady came to sit next to me and never left my side until I left the airport in Surabaya. She didn’t say much but made sure I knew what to do and where to go. Had a window seat but it was mostly cloudy. Coming into Surabaya the plane goes low over miles of shrimp farms, large rectangles of water with small shacks on narrow paths connected the shrimp ponds.

Surabaya

My last stop in Indonesia. I’m staying with the principal of the International School where I’m doing presentations. On my day off  two parents take me out to see the city: a famous cigarette factory, through downtown etc. But we also discover that one of Indonesia’s mobile libraries is operating in SurabayaA few phonically later we have located stand pay a visit. Driving by the harbour, we see many wooden ships being loaded and unloaded: rice, ratan, and much more. All workmen carry huge loads on their shoulders and always walk on bare feet. These dark, rough men all wave and smile and want me to take their pictures.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThen we drive to the Sapoerna cigarette factory. It was founded many years ago by an Indonesian family and is a major employer. Women sat upstairs in a viewing room so that we could see how they worked. It was absolutely incredible and if you’re ever unhappy with your job you only need to take one look at these workers to feel better. Cigarette paper was stretched over a wooden frame, they had a pile of freshly crushed tobacco in their laps and would pick some up, distributed it, pull the wooden handle to roll the cigarette, cut the paper, trim the ends of the cigarette and add it to their pile. This entire process probably took 4 seconds! Their hands were a blur of motion as they pulled, piled and cut. Too fast to even really see what they did. And they do this all day, every day in sweltering heat. Below the viewing room was an enormous factory floor full of these machines and people, row after row, all going through the same motions to roll the tobacco into cigarettes. It’d be enough to make you stop smoking if you did…. Add to all this a heavy, overpowering smell of fresh tobacco that made my eyes water and your work conditions are not ideal….

We did have a very good cup of… java! In a cute restaurant in the building, built as an orphanage by the Dutch. It could have been in Amsterdam with its dark paneling, leaded glass windows and grandfather clocks. Then we drove to downtown Surabaya. It’s a huge city but consists mostly of very poor shanty town neighborhoods. There are also ultra modern highrises with offices and computer stores. Each day I drive past rice paddies where women are harvesting the long strands of rice plants. Then I see the buildings of the university and gorgeous statues of white horses and dancers along roads that lead into neighborhoods with enormous houses. The contrast between rich and poor is very sharp here and more obvious than it was in Pakistan. Downtown had many Dutch buildings (geveltjes). But most of them very old and in a state of disrepair. One beautiful building was previously known as Oranje Hotel. This is where Indonesia signed its independence agreement with The Netherlands in 1947. Most say that the red and white striped flag comes from the Dutch flag with the blue torn off. The hotel was very colonial with dark wood bannisters and a court yard with palmtrees.

At one point during the afternoon it started to pour. I mean POUR! Buckets and buckets of rain pouring down in a solid sheet, in no time at all you couldn’t see the roads any more. Most roads looked like the canal’s that ran down the middle. Children were bathing, waist deep in the running torrent.

Everywhere you see little food cart, often handpushed cart with a glass display case. They sell nasi goreng, fruit, etc. You can buy a decent meal on the street for less than 50 cents. I also spotted monkeys tethered to a cart, adults washing themselves in the muddy brown canal, stalls of rambutans and oranges, etc. The kampongs are whole neighborhoods of rusted zinc roofs on rough wooden shacks. Sometimes the houses are on stilts but at any time of heavy rain or high water, these entire neighborhoods flood.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFinally, after driving for hours, we reached a neighborhood on the outskirts of Surabaya where the mobile library would be. After countless phone calls, we found a small neighborhood park in between stone residences, where the van was parked. Smiling Muslim ladies waited for us and showed us proudly the pull-out shelves of books, the TV mounted to the outside to show videos and the glass display case. I’m glad I was able to present them with a copy of my book My Librarian is a Camel, which features a mobile library in Surabaya.

A fitting end to a wonderful time in Indonesia. I vowed to return soon to this land of beautiful people and smiles.

Magical Malaysia: Fireflies and Temples

This trip dates back to 2007

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Our first flight left from San Francisco. There we had about 4 or 5 hours to wait for our flight to Hong Kong. It boarded on time but the pilot announced that strong headwinds would make it impossible to cross the Pacific Ocean straight for Hong Kong. Instead, we had to follow land: Canada, Alaska, Siberia and China. And that meant we had to refuel in Seoul, South Korea. The flight took much longer because of the land route. But Singapore Airlines was pleasant, the staff very nice and the food not too bad. The very best thing of all was that we had three seats to ourselves at an exit row. So no one in front of us and lots of leg room. 

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We landed in Seoul but it was very, very foggy. We couldn’t see a thing. Pretty soon the pilot stopped moving down the tarmac and announced that he couldn’t find the terminal without a truck to guide us in. We had to stay on board and then he announced that we would refueled but couldn’t take off again until there was a window in the fog to allow this… After a long wait, we were pushed back from the terminal but by then the fog had frozen and the plane needed to be de-iced. We were pushed back to the terminal. After the de-icing the fog had closed in again! We couldn’t even see the wing tips. There was 50′ visibility! Again we got pushed back but because of an electrical problem the engines flamed out. Finally, after about 4 hours of waiting, we managed to leave Seoul. It rained in Hong Kong but was a lot warmer. We stayed on the same plane which, after an hour, took us on to Singapore. By the time we disembarked, we’d been in the same seat for 27 hours! But the crew was wonderful. We were given packages with toiletries, extra meals, a deck of playing cards and a beautiful pen from Singapore Airlines. At the gate in Singapore, airline staff waited for us and immediately handed us boarding passes for our newly booked flight to Kuala Lumpur since we had missed the original connection plus a telephone card to phone the people who would pick us up there. Great service.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe finally made it to Kuala Lumpur where I was to conduct author presentations in a school. Our school condo is a one bedroom with a balcony overlooking a lush, tropical court yard and large pool. The school is a huge, 3 story building with palm trees everywhere. Open hallways and stairways, a large cafeteria, even a pool! The library is on the third floor, a large, beautiful library. 470 children from 44 countries are in this elementary school!

That night, we walked 5 minutes to a small shopping center and strolled across an evening market. Lanterns hung among the lush palm trees. We enjoyed margarita’s and wonderful food: pineapple rice, cashew chicken, crab omelets, packages of leaves with chicken in it and much more. I also treated myself to a full body massage. There are massage places here EVERYWHERE! This one was a three minute walk from the condo building. An incredible massage with fragrant oils and tea afterwards.

Downtown we visited a historic museum to learn more about Malaysia. We also enjoyed seeing the historic houses of parliament, a beautiful church, the national library, a huge Buddhist temple, the ornamental train station, a large islam information center and the national museum. Daytime temperatures are around the 30 degrees and the humidity is around 85% which makes you hot and sweaty whenever you are outside. KL is only 1 degree above the equator, so no wonder it is hot here.

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Kenny shows us Kuala Lumpur, where the city originated

The next day Kenny, a taxi driver, picked us up to take us downtown. First we stopped at the Petronas Towers. Very impressive – made of shining metal. We took photos of the towers and bridge and walked through the lobby. Then Kenny took us to “Kuala Lumpur” – the muddy confluence of two rivers where the city was originally founded because of tin found in the area. We strolled through the Central Market, bought postcards and gorgeous scarves. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThen outside to Chinatown but found it too crowded and tacky. Little India was more interesting, with little food stalls and fabric stores everywhere. We ate some interesting looking “donuts” and balls from garbonzo bean flour with vegetables. Walked by historic buildings, a mosque. Ended up at the old train station. By that time we were very hot and sweaty, sat in a cafeteria with ice cold fruit drinks and called Kenny who drove us to the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur. First we went inside a huge Buddhist Temple on top of a hill with nice views of the city.

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Selangor tin

Next we toured a tin factory. Selangor tin is famous around the world. It is mined here and we saw the whole process of melting, molding, polishing etc. In the gift shop we ended up buying a wonderful set of book ends featuring Winnie the Pooh.

Next Kenny took us to an authentic Malaysian Chinese family restaurant, basically just a roof over some tables and chairs on a street corner. A kind of bbq on the street was used for grilling saté. Kenny ordered and when the food arrived we had rice, chicken sate, steamed Red Snapper in vegetable broth, prawns and crab. It was very nice and not spicy at all.

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Sign in the school library!

Typically here, it started to rain: it poured endlessly. The streets flooded. Then thunder and lightning started. We drove outside the city on our way to Kuala Selangor where the fireflies are. I had no hope at all of seeing them because of the rain. On the way, the rain got so bad that we barely saw the road. The rain became torrential. Lightning lit up the entire sky.
Optimistic Kenny insisted that everything was a good sign because “storms blow over and thus the rain will end soon.” 
We made it to the firefly park but it poured so wildly that nothing was happening. We sat and waited for at least an hour and then, suddenly, the rain stopped and the boats went out. We went in a small wooden punter with a man standing on the back and rowing us across a fairly wide, brown, fast flowing river. Suddenly the bushes lit up like a Christmas tree. Across the river, more bushes glowed, reflecting in the river. Because of the rain, the bushes glowed wet and reflected millions of “lights”. They all blinked synchronized, truly looking like blinking Christmas lights. We must have floated along the quiet river for an hour. It was quite magical.